There are two approaches to grub control – preventative and curative. Prevention is usually done in June and early July, while curative is done when the grubs are actively feeding in the fall. Both are granular insecticide applications that should be watered in shortly after the application is made. The preventative application is less expensive and also limits damage to your lawn, which can be extensive, primarily from skunks and raccoons digging up your yard to feed on the grubs.
Our Mosquito and Tick Suppression program treats your lawn, landscape beds, and shrubs to reduce the presence of mosquitos and ticks. Applications are done once a month from June through September. While the full program is necessary for season-long suppression, we also offer one-time sprays for special occasions.
We can treat any lawn, tree, or shrub pest/disease. Early identification makes successful treatment easier. As soon as you see a problem, call us. For lawns, common turf pests include sod webworms, billbugs, chinch bugs, and leafhoppers. We use either liquid or granular insecticide. We typically prefer not to treat for ants because they can be beneficial to the turf. For trees and shrubs we use liquid applications. We are big supporters of trunk applications and tree injection because of their effectiveness and reduced environmental impact.
To prevent bugs from entering your home, create a barrier by spraying the foundation and soil around the perimeter of your home. Application of a contact insecticide, two feet up the side of the home and on the soil surface three feet out from the foundation, will stop bugs from entering. Applications are generally effective for 30 days.
Scale insects can be very difficult to control. One method that can help eliminate these destructive pests is dormant oil spraying. As the name implies, lightweight oil is sprayed on the tree and coats the scale that over-winters on the branches. The oil encases the pest, preventing them from breathing. The applications are usually made in late fall and/or early spring as close to bud break as possible.
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